A day trip from St. Louis out to Ferne Clyffe State Park, in Southern Illinois, is no trivial thing: You’re looking at least four hours in the car, round-trip. But as someone who has done it, I’d urge you to consider it. Ferne Clyffe is an enchanted little corner of the region. And of course, you can always break up that drive by camping overnight.
Whatever you do this weekend, I hope you get outdoors.
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Alligator Cave on the Hawk’s Cave Trail is one of many intriguing geological features at Ferne Clyffe State Park in Southern Illinois. Photography by Jay Massey
THE CAMPFIRE
A guide to navigating Ferne Clyffe State Park
Ferne Clyffe State Park doesn’t attract as much notice as other natural havens in Illinois, says Site Superintendent Jay Massey. “Starved Rock [State Park] gets closed because of the crowds,” he observes. “Here, you can walk trails and get secluded in nature. We have everything here that the biggest parks have, but what we don’t have are the crowds.”
That ability to tree-bathe in solitude is only one of the draws of Ferne Clyffe. Some others: intermittent waterfalls, ancient rock shelters, a 16-acre lake, bluffs that you can climb (given the training and equipment), and more than two dozen miles of paths and trails.
History
The name “Ferne Clyffe” was the coinage of two brothers from Cairo, Illinois who once owned the land and appreciated its eponymous plants (and also, apparently, Middle English orthography). The land came into state ownership at midcentury and today is surrounded by Shawnee National Forest, which is cradled by the Mississippi and Ohio rivers.
Plan a Visit
Leaving from the Arch, your drive to Ferne Clyffe will be a straightforward two hours. If you want to stay overnight, you can camp up in the Deer Ridge campground, which accommodates RVs and boasts both a shower house and flush toilets. For a quieter vibe, head to Turkey Ridge campground, which is more primitive but does have potable water and pit toilets. Reservations aren’t required, but if you want to make one for a trip between April 1 and October 31, you can do so here.
Spring and fall are the prettiest times to go (for the blossoms and foliage, respectively), but Massey says that even in the summertime, you can enter the canyons and just feel the temperature drop. Another great time to visit, he adds, is right after rainfall, because that’s what activates the park waterfalls, which are rain-dependent.
Two geological features at Ferne Clyffe State Park: the Ferne Clyffe waterfall (left) and the so-called “Balance Rock“ (right). Photography by Jay Massey.
Hiking
The heart of the park is Big Rocky Hollow, which is a canyon-like space edged by bluffs and giant boulders. A great way to take it all in is to stroll along the Big Rocky Hollow Trail, a gentle 0.75-mile out-and-back that leads you right to the foot of an intermittent 100-foot waterfall.
To embark on a slightly more moderate hike without having to change parking spaces, try the Hawk’s Cave Trail. That path, which is a half-mile total, leads you up to the 150-foot-long shelter bluff, one of the largest in Illinois. (Quick aside: Photos don’t do it justice. It feels much bigger when beheld in-person.) Then you wind back down past some strange, honeycomb-like rock formations.
For those wanting to raise their heart rates a bit and also see an unusual geological feature, the Happy Hollow Trail beckons. Park at the Buck Creek parking area to find the trailhead. This moderate trail is about five miles long, gains about 350 feet in elevation, and passes a natural land bridge.
Finally, on the way out, you might want to try another easy trail: the one-miler that traces the shore of Ferne Clyffe Lake. This walk affords a great view of autumn leaves if you go during that season.
Click here for a list of all hiking trails and here for a brochure that has a trail map.
Embark on an unforgettable educational adventure with the exclusive Canyon Discovery Tour at Dogwood Canyon. Explore 10,000 acres of pristine natural beauty with a private guide and a Tracker off-road vehicle, giving you the rare opportunity to observe the park’s wildlife up close.
Ryan Hanlon speaks at the opening of Federer’s Folly, the city's first mountain biking trail. Photography by Ryan Krull
IN CASE YOU MISSED IT
St. Louis city now has its first mountain bike trail: Federer’s Folly
The first-ever mountain bike trail in the city of St. Louis had its ribbon cutting in Carondelet Park on August 12, and organizers are hoping that with the trail in place, the city’s mountain biking scene will kick into higher gear. Pun completely intended.
Why you should visit Goshen Market in Edwardsville
Saturdays May through October, shop local produce and enjoy live music, kids’ activities, and support programs that fight food insecurity. Plan your visit—only 30 minutes from St. Louis.
Photography by Nicholas Phillips
Saw This 📸
A mountain biker grinds up the Chubb Trail on August 23. This was the second time I saw him. The first time, he was sending it on the downhill—and his furry friend was somehow keeping up.
💬 Seen anything cool while having fun outdoors? Email me at nphillips@stlmag.com for the chance to be featured in "Saw This."
Convergence Wellness Campout is set for September 18–21 at Astral Valley Art Park. This sober healing retreat offers music, mindfulness, trauma recovery workshops, and more in a serene natural setting. Get your tickets.
At Pedal the Cause, every bike creates major impact! Join us September 20 and 21 and ride with a purpose—to fund the research that will one day end cancer. Help end cancer.
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