With the dawn of February, our minds and hearts turn to Valentine’s Day. While some of us will celebrate in grand style (The Crossing’s Valentine’s Day menu, for instance, is $125 per person), other dining patrons are a bit more cheeky, opting for the white tablecloths at White Castle. This year, 5 Star Burgers plans to steal some hearts by offering a similar candles-and-cloth-covered-tables setup (no reservations required) but with more interesting food: its standard menu, plus a Lobster Newburg Burger (with a Cognac lobster sauce) and a Truffled Foie Gras Burger (with seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras and truffle oil–roasted mushrooms). We were also recently alerted about Pizzeria da Gloria’s tempting $60 prix-fixe pop-up (including a bottle of wine). Pepe Kehm is hosting a one-night-only, sneak peek dinner at his new restaurant, Rosé by Peno, debuting in Lafayette Square this spring. All of this creativity reminded us of 2008, when Juniper’s John Perkins was still immersed in creating underground dinners. On Valentine’s Day, Perkins put together a memorable pop-up dinner at a secret location (announced that morning as Mad Art Gallery). Guests entered to find a room divided in two: one side decorated in deep reds with votive candles, the other in black drapery with matching tablecloths. The former was for romantics and traditionalists; the latter for contrarians and cynics (and anyone who might find an anti-Valentine’s Day approach amusing). Singles were welcome—and encouraged—on either side. There was live music, themed cocktails, and each side had its own five-course menu. (We recall a red velvet cake and Love Potion #9 from the red menu, as well as a squid ink raviolo and Heart of Darkness cocktail from the black). The evening was a huge success, with both sides mixing and mingling after the meal, comparing dishes and making new friends. Somebody oughta do that again.
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Bite-Size Bits
HOT SPOT
Everyday Brunch at Bowood by Niche
Sometimes you have to wait a long time (or reserve a table well in advance) to get a seat at one of the better brunch restaurants in town. Such has often been the case at Bowood by Niche, when cravings for cacao e pepe eggs, baked oatmeal, eggs Benedict, and blueberry buttermilk pancakes occasionally had to be stifled. No longer: The restaurant is now open for brunch seven days a week from 9 a.m.–2 p.m. In other news, for Valentine’s Day, pastry chef Suji Shaw is offering cookie-decorating kits and cookie boxes, each containing 26 cookies. For details and online orders, click here. And though Bowood is normally closed for dinner on Tuesday nights, the restaurant will be open on Valentine’s Day from 5–9 p.m. Click here for reservations. 4605 Olive, 314-454-6868.
INSIDER TIP
Got German?
Missouri Life is hosting an exclusive screening of a film that it produced, Exploring Missouri’s German Heritage, at the John B. Busch Brewery event center in Washington, Missouri, on February 23. The 90-minute documentary will be shown in segments between courses of a German dinner from Hermann Wurst Haus, along with wine from Stone Hill Winery and German beer from Urban Chestnut Brewing Company. The main course—schnitzel with gravy and bratwurst over sauerkraut—includes the award-winning “Best of Show” bratwurst from wurstmeister Mike Sloan, winner of more than 500 awards, including 14 such honors and 29 international awards. A special gift bag includes German- and Missouri-themed goodies, as well as the Missouri Life book Explore Missouri’s German Heritage. Author Arthur Mehrhoff, Missouri Life TV host Meredith Hoenes, and Missouri Life cco-founders Greg Wood and Danita Allen Wood will also be on hand for the event. Tickets are available here through February 9.
MICRORANT
Calling It What It Ain’t
We were recently served a Russ’s Salad (the most popular item on the erstwhile Busch’s Grove lunch menu) that bore little resemblance to the original, save some yellow cheese. To which we say, Why bother? A deconstructed Oysters Rockefeller with no trace of a butter sauce should not be so named. A gumbo that contains corn and lima beans is not a gumbo—it’s Cajun vegetable soup. A Caesar salad must be made with romaine lettuce and anchovy. A Cobb salad is topped with six specific ingredients—no more, no less. A Reuben sandwich must be layered with corned beef, or just nix the name. A proper version of Famous Barr’s famous French onion soup should not be thin and brothy. We could go on. Being served imperfect substitutes makes us hunger all the more for accurate renditions.
A Valentine's Day guide to St. Louis restaurants for all budgets
Side By Side By Sondheim: A Musical Entertainment features some of Sondheim’s most poignant, powerful, and witty contributions to the American musical theatre canon, including songs from Follies, West Side Story, Company, Pacific Overtures, Gypsy, and more.
St. Louis Symphony Orchestra is giving away five pairs of tickets to experience classical music in a new way. Enjoy food, drinks, and music in a casual atmosphere. Enter now!
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